Here are some tips to help you repair common toilet problems.
Problem | Cause | Repair |
Toilet handle is loose | Toilet handle nut is loose or broken. | Tighten or replace handle mounting nut. Note: The mounting nut may have 'reverse' threads. Turn counterclockwise to tighten. |
Handle is broken | Replace handle. | |
Lift chain is not attached or is too long. | Check that lift chain (or wire) is properly attached to the handle lever. Adjust as needed. | |
Toilet will not flush | No water supply | Check to be sure water is turned on. |
Lift chain is not attached or too long. | Check that lift chain (or wire) is properly attached to the handle lever. Adjust as needed. The lift chain must be short enough to lift the flapper when the handle is pushed and long enough to allow the flapper to reseat into the discharge hole. | |
Toilet will not flush completely | Lift chain is too short or too long. Not allowing the water in the tank to completely evacuate. | Check that lift chain (or wire) is properly attached to the handle lever. Adjust as needed. |
Water Level is too low. | Adjust water level in tank. This is done by adjusting the location of the float when in its highest position. Move float up to raise the level, down to lower. | |
Toilet runs continuously | Water level is too high and water is flowing into the overflow tube. | Adjust water level in tank. This is done by adjusting the location of the float when in its highest position. Move float up to raise the level, down to lower. |
Float ball has leak | Remove and Replace float ball | |
Contamination between flush valve and discharge hole. | Disassemble the flush valve and clear out the contamination. | |
Damaged Flush Valve and/ or Flapper | Inspect for damage, replace as necessary | |
Water on floor around toilet | Leak between tank and bowl | Tighten tank bolts. Note: Be very careful doing this. In some toilet designs it is possible to crack the porcelain if these bolts are over tightened. Verify leak before tightening. |
Leaking Shut-Off Valve or water supply connections. | Tighten all water supply connections. | |
Leak between bowl base and drain line. | Remove toilet and replace wax ring |
Unfixable Toilet Problems
A toilet bowl that has an object (comb, toothbrush, toy, etc.) stuck in the passageway that can't be reached or dislodged from inside the bowl or from the bottom of the toilet will have to be replaced.
When the passageway in a toilet bowl becomes encrusted with scale, it restricts the flow. It's almost impossible to completely remove the scale, and it's time for a new toilet.
A cracked toilet tank can't be fixed and should be replaced as soon as it is noticed whether or not it is leaking.
You can easily conduct a home energy audit yourself. With a simple, but diligent, "walk-through," you can spot many problems in any type of house. When auditing your home, keep a checklist of areas you have inspected and problems found. This will help you prioritize your energy efficiency upgrades.
I. Identify Potential Air Leaks
First, make a list of obvious air leaks (drafts). The potential energy savings draft reduction may range from 5% to 30% per year, and the home is generally much more comfortable afterwards.
Make a list of common Indoor and Outdoor air leak locations (some examples follow): Windows and doors, baseboards, electrical outlets and switch plates, fireplaces, attic access panels, wall or window mounted A/C units or evaporative coolers, outdoor faucets (hose bibs), electrical, plumbing, phone and cable penetrations through exterior walls, dryer vents, etc.
II. Locate Air Leaks
Simple
Using a stick or burning incense or the back of your hand check each of the locations you noted on your list. Cold air will make the smoke from the incense waver or you will be able to feel the cold air on the back of your hand.
Alternative
If you're having trouble find leaks you can do a simple 'pressurization' test by using the following steps.
Close all exterior doors, windows, and fireplace flues.
Turn OFF all combustion appliances such as gas burning furnaces and water heaters, gas fireplaces, etc. (Remember to turn them back on when you are done with the test.)
Turn on all exhaust fans (generally located in the kitchen and bathrooms) or use a large window fan to suck the air out of the rooms. This increases infiltration through cracks and leaks, making them easier to detect.
Use a burning incense stick or your damp hand to locate these leaks. Moving air causes the smoke to waver, and you will feel a draft when it cools your hand.
III. Locate Other Air Leaks
Windows and Doors - If doors or windows rattle or are loose in their frames you can expect air leakage. If you can see daylight around door and window frames, then the door or window leaks.
On the outside of your house, inspect all areas where two different building materials meet. For example: inspect all exterior corners; where siding and chimneys meet; and areas where the foundation and the bottom of exterior brick or siding meet.
IV. Seal all Air Leaks
CAUTION: When sealing any home, you must always be aware of the danger of indoor air pollution and combustion appliance "back drafts." Back drafting is when the various combustion appliances and exhaust fans in the home compete for air. An exhaust fan may pull the combustion gases back into the living space. This can obviously create a very dangerous and unhealthy situation in the home.
In homes where a fuel is burned (i.e., natural gas, fuel oil, propane, or wood) for heating, be certain the appliance has an adequate air supply. Generally one square inch of vent opening is required for each 1,000 Btu of appliance input heat. When in doubt, contact your local utility company, energy professional, or ventilation contractor.
Content Provided by
Judy Browne
Workshop for Women
Denver, CO
www.WorkshopforWomen.com
303-284-6354